Outlaw Eagle Super Duty Boats
Quality Welded Aluminum Boats
The Design – SD Series
Our super duty model boats are designed to operate for many years under the most adverse conditions, the shallow Rocky Rivers, open lakes and cold weather conditions found in northern Canada.
Bottom Design / Specifications
- 3/8” thick 6061 – T6 aluminum super hi tensile keel pate: 24” wide
- 15” wide delta pad for good load carrying capability and shallow water operation
- Exclusive tapered drop chine for better load carrying capability
- 1/4″ 5086 bottom side wings for durability
- Double plating at bottom of transom to prevent transom buckling
- 3/16” bow sections with double forward bulkhead to prevent bow deflection
- 7 full length 1/4” stringers 6061-T6 aluminum with 8” deep centre stringers, 6” deep T extrusion main stringers
- Optional hi tensile steel skid plate offers the impact resistance of 3/4” aluminum plus graphite coating
- Optional UHMW Teflon allows boat to slide over obstacles in the river
- Standard with wide trim tabs with heavy duty stainless steel turn buckles
Optional Tuchodi Special Bottom Design
Available as an option on any of our boat models. This bottom design is to be used on extremely rocky rivers where impacts can not be avoided or in a boat that must have a floor mounted fuel tank and where no center stringer can be installed.
Tuchodi Bottom Specifications
- 1/2” thick 6061 T6 aluminum hi tensile keel plate, 24” wide with 15” delta pad
- 3/8” thick 6061 T6 bottom side wings with tapered drop chine
- Double plating at bottom of transom
- .160 thick transom
- (2) 6” deep “ T” extrusions as main stringers with 1/4” stringers 6061 T6 aluminum
- 1/4” bow sections with double forward bulkheads to prevent bow deflection
- Available with UHMW
- Standard with adjustable trim tabs
Side and Transom Design / Specifications
- 1/8” 5052 formed 1 piece side and gunnel
- Raised gunnel for ease of fastening covers
- Flat top on gunnel for secure walk area – 6” wide
- Dual formed side ribs
- Full length side trays
- Heavy duty pockets for top bows
Deck and Windshield
- Heavy duty 3/16” front deck
- 1/4” X 2” 6061 HD bump rail
- 1/8” all welded windshield frame with welded on railings, no rivets
- 3/16” tinted safety glass in all windows
- Dual console dash with step up to walk through
- (2) large locking storage compartments
- Optional anchor locker available in front deck
- Optional stainless steel front and rear railings
- Optional short side windows
- Standard full height motor station allows flush rear deck with large enclosed storage compartments
- Optional locking covers and locking fuel cap available
- Optional walk around engine box allows easy access to rear of boat
- Optional dual fan heavy duty heater / defroster available
- Optional HD windshield wipers available
- Dash mounted forward reverse control
- Standard tank is a 50 gallon tank below seat
- Optional tanks available include bow, floor mount and rear corner tanks; up to 4 tanks available
- All fuel fills and all fuel hoses and connections certified to comply with coast guard standards
- All fuel vents are on transom to minimize water entry
Jet Block / Intake
- Out intakes are fabricated 6061-T6 plate for durability; unlike cast aluminum intakes a fabricated intake may bend on impact but will not break or crack
- EZ clean available on Kodiak, American Turbine and Mercury
Hull Constructions / Rigging
Outlaw Eagle Manufacturing Ltd. designs, cuts, forms and assembles their boats completely in house. We have an 8’ X 24’ CNC plasma cutter that cuts the aluminum out in precise shapes for consistent quality. Our NC controlled press brake forms the aluminum to the exact shape; the boat is then assembled on a rigid steel jig.
After hull construction is complete the boat moves to our rigging area where the motor, jet drive and interior components are installed. Following final assembly each boat is water tested on the Red Deer River.
Outlaw Eagle Manufacturing Ltd. boats are available for purchase direct from our manufacturing facility or through selected dealers.
Most boat owners like to perform at least a certain amount of their boat maintenance themselves to ensure continuing good performance and reliability.
To avoid unnecessary trips to the service center, it is useful to have a checklist which can be run through systematically, in the hope of pinpointing the problem quickly. The boat can be divided into three categories – Jet Unit, Engine and Hull.
If something is “wrong” with the boat it is usually poor acceleration and load carrying, coupled with excessive fuel consumption or engine RPM’s. It could be unusual noise coming from the mechanicals, or possibly just poor top speed.
The most important single instrument of the boat when considering performance drop-off is the engine tachometer. The great thing about jet boats is that the engine RPM’s should remain the same throughout the life of the boat, regardless of age, loading, water conditions, towing, etc., unless wear is present in pump or motor. For speed calibration a GPS unit should be used (most speedo’s in boats are optimistic). For fuel consumption checks a floscan meter should be used. Don’t forget that fuel consumption is lower and speed is higher in shallow water than in deep water because of the “ground effect” of running in shallow water.
There is no situation where the RPM’s should be different from when the boat was new, and as an owner, you will know what these are. At any time, you should be able to open the throttle fully and get the same maximum reading you have been used to. Or perhaps you are finding it needs more RPM’s to cruise your normal load? RPM’s are a most important indicator of proper operation of the boat.
It is important at this stage to feel confident that your tachometer is reading accurately. Use a high quality digital timing light to verify the Tachometer. Now we come to our checklist, and determination of which major area is the problem. The simplest way is a check on the RPM’s first. They could be normal, high or low, and this will pin point the place to look:
Normal Maximum RPM = Hull Problem
If the boat is performing poorly and the maximum RPM’s are normal and what you are used to, you can look to the hull and some of the external parts. These include:
- Overload: There is too much weight aboard.
- Balance: Either too much weight aft, which will cause the nose to be too high and make planing difficult, or if the weight is too far forward, it will cause the nose to plow, difficult steering, wetness and poor top speed.
- Reverse Bucket: Is the bucket dragging in the reverse stream? Make sure the control is fully up.
- Excessive Hull Drag: Is there some external hull obstruction such as rough surface, broken keel strips, or other reason impeding the smooth flow of water over the hull bottom? A visual check on the trailer should reveal if there is. Metal hulls can have a “hook” bashed into them forward of the transom which can cause the bow to plow. The planing surface forward of the transom six to nine feet should be true and flat.
High RPM = Jet Unit Problem
Higher than normal RPM’s, lack of thrust, slipping clutch feel, engine racing and no go?
- Blockage: The most common problem is weeds and stones blocking the intake grate. Also be aware of ski rope, fishing line and plastic bags winding around the pump shaft. Small sticks and stones can become lodged in the impeller affecting the performance dramatically; objects trapped in the impeller can cause the rotating assembly to be out of balance, causing severe vibration. Make sure the water passage through the jet is clear.
- Impeller Wear: The heart of the jet is the impeller, and its condition. If you run in shallow gravel beds or across sand bars the leading edges will become dull and inefficient. Pumping sand will increase the wear-ring to impeller.
- Bowl/Stator Vanes: It’s not too much of a problem, but the leading edge of the fixed stator vanes can become blunt and damaged.
- Air Leaks: If excessive air leaks into the intake ahead of the impeller, the jet unit will “slip”. Possible sources of air leaks are through a faulty gland seal, which is usually accompanied by a static water leak into the boat when standing idle.
So if the gland is worn out and leaking into the boat with the engine off, it can also suck air when accelerating on to plane, and if this happens, then the thrust is reduced dramatically. Air can also be introduced into the system via the inspection cover, so you will want to make sure the cover is tight and the O Ring is sealing. Air can also enter through cracked intake blocks, faulty base gasket and the rear of the intake grate. Check to make sure the EZ clean grate is closing and sealing tightly
Low RPM = Engine Problem
There is generally no way the jet unit can overload the engine and bring the RPM’s down (unless the main thrust bearing fails). If the RPM’s are down from usual, it is almost certain to be an engine problem. A compression check will usually reveal leaking piston rings or valves, but the most common reasons for reduced engine power are:
- Throttle: Check that the throttle is opening fully.
- Fuel: The fuel supply must be adequate for the engine size. Racing boats frequently have a fuel pressure gauge which is, with the tachometer, probably the most important engine instrument. Sufficient fuel must be reaching the engine.
- Air to the Engine: The carburetor must be getting its full quota of cool air. If the engine has to work to get adequate air, and if it is hot air, this will reduce power. Altitude also reduces power often 100 RPM / 1000 FT.
- Ignition Spark: Be satisfied the ignition system is operating properly. A problem here is usually indicated by a rough running or missing engine.
- Exhaust: Check for a free flowing exhaust system. Some silencers can become blocked, rubber hoses disintegrate internally, or there is excessive water injection. Such things can cause excessive back pressure and reduce power. Supertrapps often become plugged with silt or woodchips.
Provided your engine is getting its full quote of air and fuel, and is getting enough spark and at the right time, the engine will usually be ok and maximum RPM’s will result. However, if the RPM’s are down and you believe the tachometer, look for an engine problem.
The hull, engine and jet unit are the three main areas to look at when your performance is down.
This can often be a concern even if there is not a reduction in performance. The most common causes of noise are:
- Cavitation: The jet unit is starved for water, and usually sounds like a rattle or a can of loose bolts in the back of the boat. Most likely a blocked intake grate.
- Moan or Whine: The jet unit can exhibit some “turbine whine” not unlike a turbocharger noise but you will know what is usual with your boat. However, if you have a new more obvious moan/whine, especially if it is a very low frequency grumble at idle, that increases with engine RPM’s then it is likely to be a rough/worn/water damaged thrust bearing. If water has entered the bearing, it is usually as a result of a flooded bilge at some time on a warm bearing, then water can be sucked in as it cools.
- Periodic Vibration: Often at specific RPM’s and disappearing at other throttle openings is probably a torsional vibration emanating most likely from the universal joints on the drive shaft. Check them for worn / slack joint needle rollers, or if they have been installed incorrectly after an overhaul. Some strake and intake grate noise is normal, especially on aluminum boats; the important thing is to be aware of any unusual noises.
- Some Rattle or Noise at Idle: This is normal with American Turbine / Berkeley pump equipped with steel or bronze impeller. The weight of a heavy impeller will cause the driveshaft to chatter at idle to approximately 1500 rpm. But above this all vibration should go away if the impeller is balanced properly.
Hull Design and Construction
While one type of boat may work excellent for one individual it may be completely wrong for another. Before buying your boat, you must take in consideration the type of boating you will be doing and where you will be boating, for example: shallow rocky rivers or deep river/lakes. Also consider the loads to be carried, number of passengers and boat speed.
- 8 Degree and Less: This type of boat is a very good shallow water boat. It will carry heavy loads easily and have less drag when on plane. Planing speeds as low as 18 mph, which will aid in driving through rocky sections of the river. However, because of this being a flatter hull, it tends to slide more while cornering and has a top speed in the 45 mph range. Also an 8 degree boat can ride quite rough and are not recommended for lake use.
- 12 Degree: This type of boat is a great all around riverboat with good weight carrying ability. This hull has enough vee to turn and steer very well without cavitation. Also, will ride smooth and has a maximum designed speed in 50-55 mph range depending on power and weight.
- 16 Degree and 20 Degree: This type of boat is a very good deep river or lake boat. This boat will ride smooth in rough water and is capable of higher speeds. However, at lower speeds the keel will be much deeper in the water creating more drag and possibility of impact with rocks or the river bottom.
- Vee Bottom: will aid in turning and handling, but sits deep in the bottom does not lift heavy loads well. Also it does not feed water into the pump very well.
- Delta Bottom: A 16-20 wide flat section, tapering to the front of the keel. This flat section aids in weight carrying and also allows for shallower draft.
- Chine: A turned down section of bottom at the outer edges, the chine aids in greater stability and helps lift loads. Also gives the boat a dryer ride and more strength.
- Qt-100 Steel: A 3/16” or 1/4” layer of high tensile, abrasion resistant steel is bolted with grade 8-, 5/16 bolts to the keel of the hull. This piece of steel is approximately 30” wide and 120” long and adds a huge amount of strength to the impact areas.
- UHMW plastic: This is added to the bottom of the boat to help the boat slide over rocks and gravel bars. While it does not add much in strength to the hull, it helps by allowing you to go a little slower in shallow water and not be stopped by impacts or by touching the bottom of the river.
- Box Stringers: These formed pieces of aluminum are welded into the bottom of the hull to give added strength to the hull and to give a level area for flooring. They are usually formed from .125 or less material and do not have enough strength to be used in boats that will be in a high impact with the bottom, rocks and other river debris.
- Tee stringers and other extruded stringers: These extruded ¼” thick 6061 T6 aluminum stringers are extremely strong and give the bottom of the hull a lot of strength. It takes more time and material to build a boat with extruded stringers. Also it adds approximately 100 pounds to the hull over a box stringer system. But because of its strength it is the only system we use.
Material thickness and grade/weight
All aluminum weighs the same, regardless of grade. For example, 1 cubic inch weights .101 pounds. So when choosing a boat to be used in severe conditions only the best grades will give you strength without weight. So by adding thickness, example 3/8 6061 keel to a 1/2” 6061 keel you will only add 36 pounds but your strength will increase by approximately 40%. Or by changing your material grade from 5086 (a good marine aluminum) to 6061 T6 you can increase strength by approximately 35% without adding any weight.
Selecting A Boat For Use With The Outboard Jet
Combining the correct outboard power and boat design is the “secret” of successfully using an outboard jet to run in shallow water.
Most important is the boat. Keep it as light as possible since, unlike a propeller drive, you cannot change to a lower pitch jet drive impeller to increase load capability.
Aluminum is usually the material of choice. It is light, tough and easy to form in the proper configuration. For outboard jets, the bottom thickness can range from 1/6″(063) for 20-50 HP to 1/4″(.250) for motors up to 225HP. The lighter gauge is more easily damaged whereas the heaviest gauge can be a weight problem on midrange power from 50-100HP.
The size and shape of the bottom is very important. The object is to ride on top of the water, which requires a good planing surface, and to float as shallow as possible when shut down. The bottom should be at least 48 inches wide and boat length at least 14 feet long.
Air entering the jet drive causes slippage, so the boat bottom needs to supply solid water, free of air, to the jet drive intake. No one boat can satisfy every need, so choices must be made. With this thought in mind, some pros and cons of various boat types are noted below.
A flat bottom boat runs shallower than a vee bottom but slides on the turns more. A vee bottom splits off air bubbles before they reach the jet intake. A flat bottom carries bubbles straight back.
A slight V of 6-12 degrees deadrise will enhance jet boat handling. A variation of this is a delta bottom which combines a tapered “pad” flat with a vee bottom. Deep vee is not desirable for the outboard jet. Not just because of increased draft and drag, but because the outboard jet needs a flat apron of water about 10″ wide leaving the hull on which to set the leading edge of the jet intake, to minimize air intake and frontal drag. The deadrise should be fairly constant and not increase to a deep forefoot at the bow. A deep forefoot can cause spinout on a sharp turn.
Keels can be a problem, introducing air into the jet intake. Center keels vary in size and may introduce air. If this is suspected, the keel should be removed 2-4 feet forward of the transom. Other keel and strake arrangements which tend to funnel air to the jet intake should be avoided.
The chines of the boat, where the sides meet the bottom, should be sharp. Round chines tend to suck the boat down in the water and cause drag.
A properly designed tunnel, combined with a slight V bottom hull can greatly enhance jet boat performance. It should raise the motor 2-3 inches and place the heel of the jet intake flush or slightly above the bottom of the boat. A jet tunnel does not work well with a flat bottom boat due to air ingestion. It’s imperative that the hull is designed correctly with the tunnel for the boat to operate properly.
The tunnel needs to be just large enough to feed the jet drive its water requirements. A tunnel that is longer, wider or deeper than necessary wastes power in lifting excess water, tends to suck the stern down when planing and sits deeper in the water at rest due to lost buoyancy.
The top of the tunnel width should be about 1 3/4 times the width of the jet drive water intake. The tunnel length does not have to be longer than about 2 1/2 times the water intake width.
Inflatables are light, easy to transport and bounce off the rocks nicely; however, due to the flexible nature of their bottom they trap and introduce air into the jet intake. Steering is squirrelly when running light and in crosswinds. Even so, we get calls from our customers who are very happy with their inflatables.
A rigid hull inflatable on the other hand cannot be folded to fit inside your car but steers better and provides solid water to the intake. Unfortunately the hulls presently available have more than 10 degrees of deadrise.
Pontoon boats do not provide a defined height apron of water ahead of the jet intake. The water level between the pontoons varies with speed and load carried. It is necessary to build an inclined plane ahead of the jet intake attached to the motor mount about 16″ wide inclined at about 15 degrees with the leading edge above water level, fully loaded at rest, trailing edge lined up with the leading edge of the jet intake.
So much for boats, now about power!! There is about a 30% power loss when converting to our jet drive. A suitable outboard jet boat carrying an average load will provide about 80% of propeller speeds. It is important to decide what load you want to carry, how many people, gear, fuel, etc. and add the weight of the boat, motor and battery. Look up this gross weight on the chart in the outboard jets brochure to determine the minimum HP you need. The chart HP is power head horsepower.
It’s important that the boat-motor combination plane the boat quickly. Planing would normally be in the mid 20 MPH range and up. This is necessary for optimum jet performance and shallow water running. At low RPM, when the boat is not planing, you would need about 12 inches of clearance between the bottom of the jet and river bed to maneuver.
If at all possible, please, before you buy an outboard jet boat, go for a ride and look for these characteristics.Does the boat plane quickly and not cavitate easily (listen to the motor for the change in RPM’s) a destructive and negative performance trait. Will the boat manoeuvre through obstacles typically found in your environment without breaking loose or skating? Is handling predictable? Poor performance will show up in a jet boat taking a long time to get up on a plane, breaking loose early in cornering and cavitation.
The advantages of the outboard jet boat include maximum space inside the boat while still having the ability to operate in less than 6″ of water, relative ease of cleaning out a clogged pump and adjustment for wear on the impeller and intake liner. So select a suitable boat with sufficient HP to handle your total weight, then enjoy fishing and hunting in areas you couldn’t reach before!
Outlaw Eagle Manufacturing Ltd. is the Canadian distributer for outboard jets made by specialty manufacturing of San Leandro, California. We stock a full line of parts and outboard jet conversions for most motors.