OUTLAW EAGLE MANUFACTURING

boosted · Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 378

The ct525 comes with a water pump and a thermostat housing. It has a specific orfice where the thermostat goes in order to cool properly when setup with a radiator in a car. We don't use any of that. The only thing you want to do with the ct525 is make sure that it runs hot enough while you break it in as the pistons are installed at .0005 clearence and the ring end gap are only around .012. Way tight and they do butt but thats how gm designed it. If the engine is to cold on break in the block doesn't grow enough and you risk popping the top off of a piston.

tknz · Joined: 25 Aug 2012 Posts: 21

all set to run my ct 525, unfortunatly dont have a dyno, what is the best bet too run this motor in? has it already been run in the factory? does the cam need run in? should i stick below a certain rev range for a certain time?

cheers tom

boosted · Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 378

It has NOT been run at the factory. You must make sure you prime the oiling system then you can start it up after that. Make sure that your ignition control unit is setup properly before also. The cam does not need any break in. Just make sure that you get it warm before running it hard. Load the engine hard but for small amount s of time gradually getting longer for about the first two hrs of run time. Then hold her down and have fun. Wtach for any signs of deto as the engine will not tolerate very much before going into pieces.

tknz · Joined: 25 Aug 2012 Posts: 21

thanks mark, how often should the oil be changed? and after the initial oil prime, do i have to follow the same instructions when changing the oil, i.e.. taking lines off following back to the motor, winding motor backwards pushing oil through the pump, and winding over with out the plugs in?

cheers tom

boosted · Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 378

You should change te oil after an hour or so of running and it is usually dirty. Not black just dirtier thatn one might think. You do not have to reprime the system at oil changes.

tknz · Joined: 25 Aug 2012 Posts: 21

thanks mark, run in is set for monday, iv read through the manual it says run the engine at 1000revs till warm the 50% throttle to 4000rpm thn back to idle, 5/6 times, the 100% to 4000 revs 2/3 times then back to idle, im wondering weather that will still work if the boat doesnt get up on the plane? when u say short hard burst do you mean on the plane? what is a short time and what revs?
cheers tom

boosted · Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 378

When they talk about running it at 50 % throttle and then 100 % throttle to a certain rpm they are assuming that it is a car. That gives the engine alot of load for a 3-5 seconds then a cool off period while it slows down. A boat is diferent it will go to that rpm right away so you you just have to try and load it for short periods then let off for a bit.

tknz · Joined: 25 Aug 2012 Posts: 21

Hey guys, first w.e of racing out of the way, good chance to see other set ups in nz.
As of yet i havnt seen the no water pump set up. Im am interested to learn more, you say you run it at 17psi for 150deg, is that at wot, once set is that it for the race? Does the temp fluctuate if you are changing rpm alot? Are you preheating the water some how or is it straight in?

Tom

sandman · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 260 Location: The captains table

Set your pressure at W.O.T., that way you will never exceed it unless something plugs you off! In real dirty water I have seen a couple plug offs, 2011 worlds had lots of lumber, crap, leaves, beavers, mud, sticks etc coming down! You become used to the pressure /temp correlation and adjust accordingly. Water density changes can be compensated for immediately. Chunks get flushed through, small enough pieces that get caught by the valve are still small enough to flush through the engine. Anything big enough to get caught in the engine will be caught first by the pump pressure takeoff tap.
On some legs, you may have to adjust the block pressure a few times to maintain your best temp on the engine.
Upon the ending of a leg, pressure control valve is opened up a bit to ensure your hot engine gets a steady stream of water at cool down as your pressure to the engine will now be quite low compared to race speeds and pressures.
Inversely, limiting the water to your engine at start up can help to warm it up faster too.
Just be sure that as soon as you can after the flag drops, you have your pressure set.

tknz · Joined: 25 Aug 2012 Posts: 21

Are you pre heating the water or just straight into the block? Do you have the tap set up so your navigator can adjust it during the race? Could you have pressure release valve and set it at 17psi just before the motor? And have any spikes run over board? we have some rivers with fine sand, im worried it would find a home in the motor

sandman · Joined: 15 Jun 2005 Posts: 260 Location: The captains table

Water is pre heated through the oil cooler first, there is an overboard line for flushing through the cooler.
After the cooler, water is split into overboard line with throttle valve for regulating cooler temp, and the other leg goes to the engine, through throttle valve.
Navigator runs oil cooler flow and block pressure/temp.
I know some guys use a relief system overboard, some use factory water pump, some use a phase bypass system like I believe boosted and crew does.
We have had sucess with what we run and tend to keep with what is easy to service on the fly. No special parts are needed to make it work.

boosted · Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 378

Sandman is right. I have run a phase and bypass before with a thermostatically controlled oil cooler valve that reroutes the oil around the cooler when it is cold. I have also run a valve system so that \i could control block pressure and temp on the fly. I also have run an orfice system that has no valve or controls.all have merit and all seem to have there thing that that they are better at but in the end they all work. As for now i am using an orfice system cause just like the system I am simple. LOL

tknz · Joined: 25 Aug 2012 Posts: 21

i cant work out how u would regulate the oil temp if the water is used in the motor after, i was thinking of running into a sandtrap by the navigator with a tap before it then into a pressure relief before the motor, set it at a certain psi/ temp. if my unit blocks i can open the tap and it wont afect the block pressure, i could also have it shut for warm up, would that work??

boosted · Joined: 04 Jun 2009 Posts: 378

We used some three way valves. One direction bypassed the oil cooler and the other sent it through the oil cooler. Worked great but to many hoses for me.

tknz · Joined: 25 Aug 2012 Posts: 21

would running an oil heater in the sump plug work to solve the water through oil cooler problem while you warm up? if you heated it 20min before start up to get oil to 80-90 degrees while you warmed the motor you would have minimal water running through the oil cooler untill the motor was hot, would the oil stay around 100 untill your up and running??